I have used (more accurately: will use) Peco code 55 streamline and electrofrog points for all visible trackwork. The .055" profile is still a fraction too tall for sidings and minor branchlines, representing something like the heaviest mainline rail in use in NZ, hence (and for other reasons) code 55 is specified in the module standards. The sleeper profile is somewhat appropriate for NZ track. It certainly looks more accurate than some of the US N gauge track, which has a much finer sleeper profile, due to the slight scale difference between UK and US N scale. I don't know how well the 009 sleepers match the NZ prototype when rescaled to 1:120, but that is just an asthetic that you may be fine with.

You could also try hand-laying your track, letting you use whatever code rail you want.

Hi Drew

 I use Peco streamline Code 55 points and flexi track,  i'm would  say any code 55 track would be suitable, depends on your preferance,  if you want to handlay micro engineering code 55, then you have atlas code 55 for flexi track.

cheers

RKBL

Even in code 55 rail, the short Peko sleepers really bug me. I know Druff is getting around this by hand laying his track but that can be a bit tough for us mere mortals.

I've had success (in a larger, unmentionable scale) using On30 flexitrack track. I first cut all the sleepers down to exactly the right length with a mallet and chisel and then cut the links between the sleepers (far lighter weight connections and fewer than Peko, so it wasn't hard) so that I could get the sleeper spacing exactly right, including the subtle variations in spacing where rail joins occur.

I haven't looked into the possibility of doing this with OO9 flexitack but it would certainly be worth looking into. Personally, I think that correct looking sleepers is more important than having a low code number rail.

I believe a key visual fault in many NZR layouts is the use of N, HO and OO standard gauge flexitack with sleepers that are incorrect for TT and S. Even non-railway expert people looking at them can tell something is wrong, even though they can't tell what. Why go to all the effort to work in a scale with few accessories like people, animals and motor vehicles simply to get the "right look" by having the right gauge, and then end up with the track looking nothing like the prototype by having the sleepers completely wrong? 

Drew, if you want to use 009 Mainline track - go for it ! Peco Code 55 isn't true 55, it just uses some trickery involving the rail being imbedded deeper into the sleepers and a double flange/web thingy at the bottom of the rail. It utilises the same fishplates/joiners as standard N track and 009 track. I've just done a quick test with a piece of 009 crazy track (much the same specs as Mainline but has the much maligned sleepers) and a piece of Peco code 55 and they seem to join together well. I haven't had the pleasure of handling a piece of Mainline, but the sleepers (if anything like the Crazy stuff) may be a bit wide and long, but hey, after being ballasted - probably fine. There is an alternative. Roco HOe track has a sleeper width of 2mm, height 1.5mm, length of 18mm, and a spacing between sleepers of about 5mm. I also have some lengths of Tillig HOe (available from Kelmarna Loco Depot), but it doesn't look as useful for NZ120 as the Roco track. 

What prices were you looking at for a box of Mainline ?

there is some TTm track in the making from a German Kleinserienhersteller who produces narrow gauge TT trains (TTm) and he will release a new track system soon...

...will probably cost an arm and a leg but the dimensions should at least be right

 I have used both Peco C55 and Atlas C55 on my Manawatu Gorge modules, and, preferring the look of Atlas due to more prototypic sleeper characteristics, have changed to Atlas in the scenic/visible areas of track.

Atlas C55 points look good also but are more fragile during installation than Peco.

As a 'mere mortal' (with the burnt fingers to show for it) I can safely state that its not that hard to make your own track. Certainly the single track stuff is fine, and the points just take a bit more doing. The main hurdle to overcome is the one of confidence. My first attempts are nothing to write home about (and when Am Fet recieves the package he can give you all the unvarnished truth), but I'm trying it, and I'm learning through my mistakes.

A point which may be worth considering is that Atlas Code 55 track apparently causes major problems for older, mainly US-sourced  rolling stock with 'Pizza Cutter' (Coarse scale) wheels.  Evidently they bounce off the tops pf the track spikes, which is of course somewhat unprototypical.

Having used Peco' for years I not unnaturally prefer that company's products, (although I have tried Atlas) but am passing this on FWIW.

Komata

"TVR - serving the Northern Taranaki . . . "

Someone please correct me if/when required, but at some time in the past I recall someone in the 1:64 commuity was making scale accurate plastic NZ sleepers that clipped on to rail in the same fashion as commercial flex track. Does anyone else recall this? Was it Kennsey Plastics, whoever that was/is? Could that concept be applied to NZ120 successfully?

You are correct - Kensey Plastics (aka Ken Clough) used to have these manufactured for the 1:64 lads a few moons back, but he ceased involvement in that line of business a few years ago - I believe he may have disposed of certain of his product range to Ken Cousins, but not sure about the sleeper stuff - check the website of KC to see if this is a line still offered in S scale.

Given one could find a manufacturer to do this, then I am sure the concept could be applied to produce a similar product for TTn 3.5 - in fact the UK 2MM Soc. have developed a whole range of sleeper bases in their new Easitrac range - I am currently awaiting a small supply of bits from the mother country to experiment along those lines at trimming & rejoining the sleeper base to 9mm gauge, and then inserting the flat bottom code 40 rail which they supply (or bullhead) - the Easitrac range includes all sorts of point configurations as well - will report on results in a couple of months or so, once stuff turns up here. 

note: the www.onlinemodels.co.nz website does NOT show any track/sleeper base parts currently. 

I would lend my support to the Head Druff and confirm that immortality is not a pre-requisite for hand-laying track, just a bit of time, patience and a pair of track gauges.

Burnt fingers only occur if you ignore the warnings on the box your soldering iron came in and try to hold things with your fingers when soldering; clamps/pliers do a better job anyway.

Try a short length of straight track first, then progress to curved.

The extra realism is worth it.

QR120

QR 120 are you going to any of the up coming shows in Brisbane?

Regards Manaia

Hi Manaia,

There is a show coming up in Ipswich which I plan to attend, and I have also been invited (and accepted) to display some models at the upcoming 'Modelling the Railways of Qld' convention.

Happy to catch up at other times if you like.

I live at Bellbird Park (near Redbank Plains), are you far from there?

Cheers.