Buying a similar loco   taking say smoke deflectors off maybe repaint if need be and your over half way there.   As long as you can buy something that appears similar    correct wheel arrangement and shape then really its simple. Depdend how fussy you want to be    magnifying glass or arms length.    Old american locos look similar to the Old J K N P class. Maybe scratch building a new tender and you would be sorted.

Bachman and kato have been pretty easy to convert. 

I have a Kato C11 on the way which I think may be of use! 

Has anyone done conversions from Graham Farish locos?

The kato C11

Welcome to the nuthouse old chap. Good to see someone else has a sensible time period in mind to model.

Modeling NZR (where did NZGR come from? even when it was sold off the name didn't really change) steam locos has been one of my favorite hobby horses/axes to grind over the last couple of years. You can go down the repainting route, but thats not really TTn3.5 is it, just klike repianting N scale diesels isn't TTn3.5 either. The choosen route in the past has been to select a chassis that is somewhat close in wheel arrangment and then build a 'lid' on it. This is about where S scale modeling was 40 years ago, and its high time we did better.

Having said that, its going to take a lot of work to do it. maybe if I get the time this year....

I've currently got a Dapol 2-6-2 undergoing conversion to a Wf (with a new 2 axle rear bogie) and a Bachman mountain into a B 4-8-0 (with some brutal mech chopping). Your C11 is a good start for a Wf. Lose the plastic top and the outside bogie sidframes (unless they are holding anything important together). I'd also consider using larger diameter wheels on the leading and trailing wheels. You might need to add new cylinders (or at least make them bigger)

I'm not sure I could do this now quite honestly. Maybe if another catagory is added 'looking through the bottom of a recently emptied bottle of single malt whisky'....

Its always better to have a crack at building your own tops, regardless of the quality. Some of my early work was 'interesting' and made mostly in cardboard. it just takes practice, and a willingness to learn for the next model.

 NZ Government Railways? I've got line drawings of various loco's to use a basis for making scale plans and prototypes as I want to do our railways justice! Once I've made at least one conversion I can think more about the layout, I have a few ideas but nothing set in stone yet... thanks for all your help! 

 Also, I have a Farish 4MT and Merchant navy, whose chassis could be used as a base for Wd/Wf and something else hah! I'll do some measuring and decide what works better. Hoping its easy to swap out the leading & trailing bogies for some aftermarket ones (Trackgang perhaps?)

I'll trawl the forum archives so as not to ask too many silly questions... 

I applaud your efforts and enthusiasm for 'kettles'. Yes as MD has said, just painting n scale loco's doesn't really 'cut the mustard', as they aren't TTn 3 1/2 scale, but if thats a short term resolve and you're happy with that, then go for it. In most cases, I think you could probably get away with using the boiler as a start, but the rest is probably a scratch build job.

I don't have much in my product range to help scratch build 'kettles', but if I can help in any way, just email.

Cheers

Russ

Hi Russ,

I'm looking to really cut the mustard to pieces with these conversions, or at least give it a solid go! Would seriously love to have Ab 608 running around on my track... in full royal getup! A troop train headed by a U was another idea, would need quite a few class A cars! 

If anyone needs some drawings of steam loco's I have a few, just ask 

Here's a pic of C 845 that was done by Motorised Dandruff. I think the chassis is a Minitrix. He may be able to provide more details on it's construction.

If you want to model an Ab, the Kato C55 Montetsu may be ok for a chassis : www.1999.co.jp/eng/10003477

Len

Ah yes, the C55! I almost opted for that instead of the C11 ! But anyway I've got a few chassis I can work with. Will have to work out how to take the Farish lids off without destroying them before any real work can begin! I'm not entirely sure where to get wheel sets/bogies from though? I had a look at the ATLAS website and there are many to choose from but possibly not what I will need? 

Right! I'm off to Wings over Wairarapa! Enjoy your weekends fellow TTn3.5ers!

Jonny

 Here is my collection of N scale stuff which is soon to be off to the shops for 'minor' cosmetic work... will be sure to update progress on whatever i start! I'm hoping the Peco wagons will be more useful than not.

Hi, I'm new to the hobby and I need a trainload of advice.

I thought I'd make my life hard by building a K or a J.  I'm looking at kit-bashing a chassis then building a body with a combo of rapid prototyping and laser cut styrene/brass, all of which is new to me. 

I would be most keen to know people's thoughts on the subject, advice from those who have gone before, and info such as what is a good chassis to use as a starting point.  If, for example, there is a chassis where the wheel size and spacing closely approximate those of a J, then it will be a J I'll have a crack at.

Between work and family commitments I can see it is going to be a long-term project.    I'm not aiming for super-accuracy, I won't lose sleep over having a K with a lead bogie sporting solid rather than spoked wheels.  If someone can pick up my model and differentiate it as a K rather than a Ka then I'll be happy.

Thanking you in advance,

Hoki

 Hi Hoki

Perhaps we could collaborate a little? Where abouts in NZ are you based? I went out and got myself some materials to make a start yesterday. I also have some CAD plans of various kettles if that will help you at all!

Jonny

Hi Hoki

I have made a K and Ka using the Bachman J chassis. The wheel spacing and centres are close enough. Its a very smooth runner and one of them has a sound chip in the tender.

I had to take some material off the top and sides of the frames which was very easy using a power file.

I have been looking at making a Ja with the same chassis but it will need a smaller motor and a new trailing bogie. The body of the Ja has been Cad drawn in 3D and needs a few more details adding to it.

Dave

Hi Jonny and Dave,

Collaboration sounds great though I fear it might be a bit one-sided as I'm as green as a cabbage at all this. I live in Howick and work in Auckland City.  At present I have scant information on any loco.  Just a few pics from Railfan and the Model Railway Journal.  So any info would be most appreciated.  I'm aiming to CAD model a K body ready for rapid prototyping and when I'm done I'm more than happy to share the file with anyone who wants it.  It might take me a while however.  I've got myself a Bachmann 4-8-4 Santa Fe that I was going to plunder as the driving wheel diameters seem very close to the desired 54".  Close enough to require checking with a Vernier anyway and that is good enough for me.  I'm guessing this chassis is the same as your J chassis Dave?

Jonny, I'd most appreciate any CAD drawings you have available.  Dave, it sounds like you've done it all already.  I'd be most keen to see any pics if you have them as well as the Cadded up Ja.

Thanks for your response guys,

Hoki

hi i have bilt a KA class from a bachman 4-8-4 but the chassis is to long and unreliable the con cor 4-8-4 is a better chassis and the front truck has sideframes  cheers jolon

Hi , I have a newer model of the bachmann J class 4-8-4 with a sound chip in the tender. no comparison to older models. has finer wheels and lovely detail in the valve gear. the older models suffered from splits in plastic between driving wheels, due to quality and type of plastic used. i repaired a model for someone by using brass tubing cut to fit over plastic and then held with threadlock? engine still going strong after 2yrs running. hardest part is setting up valve gear correctly. my thought is if you are going to go to the trouble of scratchbuilding a loco, you might as well use a decent chassis, otherwise you will be disappointed with running quality. John

Thanks Jolon and Beakaboy,

I really appreciate your feedback.  I heartily agree, there seems little point in going to the effort of scratchbuilding a body if the running-gear is less than adequate.  My knowledge of what 4-8-4 running-gear is available in N is .... well....ummm...now 'four'.  I've just had a look at the Concor.  From the small pics I can find on the web the wheel spacing certainly looks more 'K'-like.  And I note the sideframes.  They deal with a headache that I must admit I hadn't even reached the stage of considering. 

Thanks guys,

Hoki

Have a look at Dave's pic's

http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/~rdmurg/gallery/layouts.htm#dw

Russ

Hi Russ,

Yes, that was the first NZ120 K picture I saw and I immediately thought to myself  "Wow! I want one of those!"  Would love to see more pictures of all Dave's steamers - and the milk wagons... and the diesels and....

Hoki

con cor s-2 4-8-4 or northern type 4-8-4 from model train stuff for $149.99  normally $299.99 cheers jolon

 KA 942 IN 120

KA 942

KA 942 RAER

AB CLASS

WX class

G class

Hi Hoki

The Bachman J and Santa Fe chassis are very different.

I agree with Beakaboy there is no comparison between the old and new Bachman J chassis. I had the same problem with the axles splitting and did the same repair.

The K and Ka were built with the old chassis and I have upgraded the Ka to a new Bachman J and have bought another one to replace the K

Will do it when I have some time.

PS I live in the same area.

Dave

Wow!

Thank you for all the posts. That is all incredibly useful information and I'm most grateful.  (In hushed tones...) My mission now will be to get approval from the Fat Controller to purchase a new chassis.  I've had a look at Model Train Stuff today and their prices seem cheaper than the places I was blundering through - so that helps my cause thank you.  And I fixed the shower, toilet and washing machine this weekend (all repaired early prior to catastrophic failure) so I might have a brownie point or two up my sleave.  I wonder if the bosses at KiwiRail have to go through a similar exercise?

And it is great to see pictures of those models.  It makes the dream of owning a TTn3.5 K seem so much more tangible.

Crikey!  The missus is on the stairs I had better post this and go...

Kindest regards to all,

Hoki

micro ace c51 to be ab class loco

micro ace c51

 AB CLASS

Hoki, re model train stuff site. just watch out for postage charges. to get some idea of cost, add item to cart and when you are taken to cart, put details for destination,etc. click on recalculate and when browser updates, click on arrow by shipping rates to see options and prices. usually around US$15 for first item. price goes up as you add new items, but varies depending on weight and size?? quite handy as you can find out total cost before commiting to purchase. I made several  purchases  last year .however i ended up having to pay GST when it arrived through customs.

have dealt with hobby search for several purchases and always quick and efficient.have had some reasonable orders and have never had to pay GST.You can earn points if registered and these can be used on additional  purchase for future discount. (i usually use this to discount frt)

SAL shipping is cheaper than EMS method, but no tracking or insurance. i have used both methods successfully. John

Hi Jolon, love those steamers.especially that WX loco.is it a fleishmann chassis underneath?

hi beakaboy the WX class is a trix made in western germany cheers jolon

Great inspiration seeing some steamers, especially the Ab and Wx!

Just to reiterate what beakaboy said, HobbySearch is great, I have used them many many times! EMS shipping is almost instant but rather pricey... Used 2000 of my points to get the Kato C11, which made it much cheaper as it was already 20% off 

Jonny

 As an aside, the class is "X" not "Wx"...makes a big dfference when searching it :)

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NZR_X_class

I now wot a x class is they are a 4-8-2.  The wx class is a 2-10-2 experimental tank loco. The nzr drew up some steam loco drawings that were never built  SUPER Q  1943 SUPER X 1943 AND J TANK  cheers jolon

Hi Jolon,

do you know how many Wx class loco's were built?

Jolon, do you have any plans for the WX class? I have a fleishmann ?? 2-10-2 that i was going to sell as i couldn't see any NZR locos with that configuration.cheers John

No Wx 2-10-2 tank loco's were ever built!

Russ

Ah gotcha, thanks Russ! At least we have the information (scant as it may be) to build the 'what-ifs' in miniature.

On another note, seeing as the Ab was so prolific, would it not make sense to build a fleet of them? Has there ever been any standard 'lid' kit or anything like that? Very keen to get stuck in but real life (as opposed to scale life) is getting in my way...

Its great to see all the input and inspiration on this thread, it seems to me like NZ120 has a growing and very active community!

Jonny

Hi Beakerboy and Jonny,

It's good to see that there has been quite a bit of interest in my 2-10-2 Tank Locomotive. The locomotive in question new zealand railways was messing around with alsorts of designs before the diesel age came into play. As modelers in this scale doing steam you could build what ever you like. If you have a chasis with 2-6-2 arrangement there are quite a few different locomotives you could build. The 2-10-2 you have could be anything you want it to be because there is no proof that that locomotive was  never drawn up. So go ahead build something different because after all modeling is all about having fun doing something that exists or could have existed with steam. Diesels on the other hand are a bit more interesting.  So it is your choice wether you want to be a rivet counter or somebody that enjoys the hobby we are playing with. If anyone out there is looking for steam locomotive plans of any wheel arrangement I will try and help out with what I have. Thanks for the interest guys and happy building.

Cheers Jolon

 Hi Jolon,

At times I can be a rivet counter, other times I just want to build something and play with it. Seeing your models has certainly given me impetus to do something.  

A Wj would have quite a presence on my (non-existant) layout! All I lack at the moment is the time to do all these things...

Jonny

120 scale is the best for size, but the top dog toys are only for the top dogs , how many out there would love to bye a laser cut DX?

L/R NEW J CLASS OLD J CLASS G CLASS AB CLASS BC CLASS SUPER Q CLASS WJ OR WD CLASS WX CLASS AND NC CLASS LOTS TO DO CHEERS JOLON

 Thanks for the info Jolon...as you can see I am still a learner of these things. Good luck with the 2-10-2 - Where were they intended to operate? 

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2-10-2  indicates a number of overseas prototypes so I guess there will be some N scale models that might be candidates for modification to NZ120.

Are there drawings available for the Wx and other "unbuilts" you mention?

Thanks Jolon.

no drawings for the wx class.  super Q and the super x drawings yes in steel roads of new zealand and J class tank in nz railway observer august-september 2001 no.248

 I think In Steel Roads of NZ there are two profiles of Super X & Q? And one profile of superheated Ab with dimensions. Think I have a scan somewhere...

Inherited from my grandfather, Read it front to back many times!

Jonny