Trackgang Nc Kit review.

I've always liked the short open flat wagons as you can put a variety of loads on them (tracktors, wood, containers etc). At this point in the review I'd ramble on about when they were built and by whom and how many there were to blueprint so-and-so, but I quite honestly don't have a clue. Anyway, in the bag we get the following.

2 Solebars, 2 ends a floor, the 2 sides, a brake cylinder and lever, a pair of non working knuckle couplers, and 12 stanchions. Oh and 2 bits of brass. I'm still wondering what these are for (update, I've found the instructions and they are for handrails and brake hoses). The wheels are different to previous ones, being sourced from America rather than England. They have short axles (14mm vs 15mm) but also a smaller diameter (5.2mm vs 6.2mm) first one good, second one...we'll see as we go.

First up I carefully used a 1mm drill to put a pinpoint into the axle holes on the solbars. I then glued one solbar to the floor in the correct spot. I also glued the brake cylinder on at this point (though it took 4 goes as the little blighter kept dropping off).

I then put the wheels in and glued on the second solebar. At this point I noticed that the new wheels are metal, and are only insulated on one side. Thus make sure you get them the same way round or your power supply won't love you any more. Hold the second solebar in place till the glue sets and make sure that the wheels remain parallel at this time.

Once the glue has set, check that the wagon sits flat on the workbench (I have a small sheet of glass for this sort of thing). If it doesn't, 1st make sure that the wheels are in the right spots in the bearings. If that's not the problem then very carefully bend the wagon so that it sits square (only if its out by less than 1mm). If its really serious you will have to take it apart and start again.

At this point I deviated from the instructions. The 2 ends were tided up with a file. The ends of the floor were squared up, and also the notches on the ends of the solebar were filed until a test fitting of the end was square. The ends were then glued in. The Nc has an outside brace on the floor to support the outside of the deck. These were filed to fit in place and then glued.

'This is a crap photo'

At this point the only thing left to fit were the stanchions. These were first filed as there is a bit of mold mismatch on the castings. This is the hardest bit of the job. I measured up the location points on the deck and marked them with pencil. As I didn't have a plan to work from (my preferred method) I measured the deck (50mm) and divided by 7 (there's 6 stanchions) giving 7mm between stanchions with a wee bit of a fudge factor( the instructions say 7.4mm, but I don't have a ruler or a set of eyes that's that good). The stanchions were set up on the workbench with the square pad side down and the side with the ridge face up (a close inspection will reveal all). I applied glue to the correct mounting points and, with the wagon sitting on it's side but slightly raised off the bench, then slid the stanchions into place one by one. I then braced the wagon while the glue set.

After the second side was done we get to the final model sans paint.

I will probably buy a few more as I do like the look of them. I'd possibly convert some to Na's with bond chains etc.